I own a 1992 GTO TT which I had been having all sorts of issues with hot start, idle etc etc

So far I have done the following

1/ Replaced all vaccum lines
2/ Replaced ISC Motor
3/ Engine ECU has had the Caps replaced
4/ ECS ECU has been removed
5/ New NGK Iridium Plugs
6/ New Leads
7/ New Fuel Pump

I have only just removed the ECS ECU and there are at least 3 caps on that board that are stuffed. I don't need this as my car Tein Coil Overs installed.

Each item above as it was done seem to fix the issue for a couple of days then the hunting at idle would begin again.

As noted above I have just removed the ECS ECU and now the car runs a lot smoother, seems to have slightly more power but the hunting of the idle is still there but only minor (drops about 200rpm that back up again).

The problem I'm having now :mad: is that cold start the car jumps straight to 2000-2500rpm which is very high for a cold motor that has not got oil pressure so the wear on the engine will be quite bad and now the Engine Check light will flash on and off while driving on the highway.

I don't know where to go from here, please help :(

**edit** when I mean no oil pressure that's only because the engine has not been started, oil pressure is fine once running.

have you checked for a boost leak, also check your oxygen sensors.

Nope no boost leaks, the idle issue is a random issue so it's getting very hard to locate.

We found a buggered water pump last friday so we are doing that monday/tuesday then i'll be looking at the TPS and O2 Sensors.

Basically we have no idea WTF is going on

the gaps on the plugs may be incorrect even though iridiums are "pregapped" they still maybe incorrect.

also try checking you Injector Latency's and MAF scaling. but i dont know how deep you can get into your ECU.

Pull the ECU to see if the caps are leaking. The 1G GTO/3KGT/Stealth all have a know issue with the caps leaking. Once they leak odd thing occur. In extreme cases the fluid from the caps can render your ECS irrepairable and the only option is replacement. Check out this link for instructions: http://www.stealth316.com/2-ecmremoval.htm
Hope it helps.

Alan

Pull the ECU to see if the caps are leaking.


So far I have done the following

1/ Replaced all vaccum lines
2/ Replaced ISC Motor
3/ Engine ECU has had the Caps replaced
4/ ECS ECU has been removed
5/ New NGK Iridium Plugs
6/ New Leads
7/ New Fuel Pump


Scotty....

sorry missed that

Now drop and give me 20 maggot! :D

Scotty

Now drop and give me 20 maggot! :D

Scotty


Done, Sir.

Have you tried a known good ECU?

Nah I haven't, I don't know anyone on the gold coast with a GTO which I could try.

It's back at the mechanics again today hopefully I get an answer to WTF is going on

Yo D. Been a while since I heard from you. Let us know what your spannerman says. Hope it's not too bad.

Scotty

Hey All, after trying to get this sorted we have decided that aftermarket management is the best way to go. At the moment we just seem to be going around in circles with it.

The idle issue seemed to sort itself out when the new water pump went in, the previous owner of the car had it replaced by a workshop and that workshop decided not to bother putting the gaskets on the pump.


Now I'm having issues with trying to cruise. When cruising at anything over 60km's (40mph) the engine check light comes on and stays on :evil: The car will cruise like that for a couple of mins then give a large misfire sort of thing then the light will go out.

The only thing that has changed is the ECS ECU has been removed, if I put it back in the engine check light does not come on but the car runs like a total POS.



At this stage I'm regretting every buying this car. I'm seriously considering just selling it off and go and buy something else.

Man.... I wish I could help you here. I thought your mechanic has worked with these cars before. What's he saying?

Scotty

yeah he has built a couple of them for racing but even he is having trouble finding WTF is going on.

Engine Check Light.....

I have been paying some more attention to when this comes on and trying to work out if I can get an answer.

My thoughts at the moment are TPS.


Here is why I'm thinking that, cruising on the highway at 100k's. The car is in 5th gear and running at around 2200rpm. Engine check light is on. I lightly breath on the throttle and it goes out for about 3-4 km's then comes back on. Rince and repeat.

Am I correct is saying that the TPS is most prob the culprit? As I said if cruising (read not throttle movement) the light comes on but as soon as the throttle is touched the light goes straight out.


What do you all think??

Well I was completely wrong. We tested the TPS and it works perfectly while the car is sitting still.

But.....

my mechanic somehow managed to get his hand on the software to the diagnostic on my car. They tested everything and everything works perfectly except for the no signal from the suspension ECU but that is not causing any issues.

They did find an old error code in there though for the TPS which has now been removed. I go back tomorrow if the Engine Check light comes on again tonight and in the morning. If it does then we will know for sure if the TPS is the issue while driving.

It's fixed. After many months to the point of nearly selling this car it ended up being that the ECU had a log of errors on it. All we did was removed those error logs and now the car runs perfect.

The car no longer hunts at idle, the cold start now ramps up to approx 1500rpm and not the 2000-2500 as before, the engine check light now does not come on anymore and the car no longer has it's miss fire that it used to have.

Thanks to everyone for your assistance in trying help me get this sorted out.

Now I can and will actually start to modify

I happened to me but what i did is just replaced a new ecu.