92TSiAWD
10-17-2006, 02:36 AM
For those of us who unfortuanately enough got the single piston brakes with our early model 1g awd's, there's still hope. Our brakes do a very poor job stopping our 3300lb cars from any type of speed, and if your going to make your car faster, your going to also need to stop faster.
Although swapping in calipers and rotors from a 93+ AWD is a HUGE improvement over the single pistons, this article is aimed more toward the DIY autocrosser and/or roadracer who really needs BIG stopping power at the track. This article will also hold true to those of you with dual piston calipers who also need that extra oomph of stopping power.
The idea is simple, get the biggest possible calipers and rotors to fit behind a MINAMUM 17" wheel. (did you really think you were gonna stick all these behind your stock 16's)
Ok... here's what you need...
2 - 97+ Mustang Cobra front rotors, stock or aftermarket. They have the same bolt pattern as a DSM and very similar backspacing.
2 - 1G 3000GT VR-4/Stealth twin turbo 4-piston calipers w/brake pads
2 - wheel spacers
2 - hubcentric spacer rings (baer brakes makes a very similar brake kit for our cars and might have these available for sale upon request)
1 - large scrap of 3/8" thick steel (or 2 smaller ones)
12mm mounting hardware of your choice (I recommend tapping the metal, threading the bolts and then adding a shear nut on the other end for safety)
Here's what you do...
Check out the picture attached and cut the scrap(s) of sheet metal to size, shape, and drill those holes.
Remember, you have 2 wheels, and 2 calipers, so you need 2 of these. Credit goes to wartdog of dsmtuners.com for creation of the picture. The pic. is entitled "BRAKEadaptordrawing"
That crazy shape you cut (twice) is your new caliper mounting bracket. It was designed to fit between the rotor and the mounting tabs (not the outside of the tabs) and inside the tabs of the caliper.
The hardest part of this job is fabricating the brackets, so do that before you get to even removingthe old stuff.
once their made...
Remove the old rotors, calipers, and caliper mounting bracket.
Fit the hubcentric spacer ring inside the rotor (just how the stock one was installed) and install the rotor onto the hub.
Bolt the new caliper mounting bracket as previously instructed. A picture is attached, and entitled "mockup". (also accredited to wartdog) Because a picture is worth 1,000 words, and I really want to get to bed, and not type all night.
Attach the brake line to the caliper.
Attach the caliper to the mounting bracket (along with fresh brake pads).
Zip-tie the OEM brake line to the strut (doesn't quite fit in that stock bolt hole does it?)
Bleed the brakes.
Re-install the wheels.
Your Done!!!
Follow the manufactures suggested brake in time for your new brake pads and your good to go.
You will immediately notice a softer pedel feel, this is normal. Stainless steel brake lines may help somewhat.
...Enjoy
Although swapping in calipers and rotors from a 93+ AWD is a HUGE improvement over the single pistons, this article is aimed more toward the DIY autocrosser and/or roadracer who really needs BIG stopping power at the track. This article will also hold true to those of you with dual piston calipers who also need that extra oomph of stopping power.
The idea is simple, get the biggest possible calipers and rotors to fit behind a MINAMUM 17" wheel. (did you really think you were gonna stick all these behind your stock 16's)
Ok... here's what you need...
2 - 97+ Mustang Cobra front rotors, stock or aftermarket. They have the same bolt pattern as a DSM and very similar backspacing.
2 - 1G 3000GT VR-4/Stealth twin turbo 4-piston calipers w/brake pads
2 - wheel spacers
2 - hubcentric spacer rings (baer brakes makes a very similar brake kit for our cars and might have these available for sale upon request)
1 - large scrap of 3/8" thick steel (or 2 smaller ones)
12mm mounting hardware of your choice (I recommend tapping the metal, threading the bolts and then adding a shear nut on the other end for safety)
Here's what you do...
Check out the picture attached and cut the scrap(s) of sheet metal to size, shape, and drill those holes.
Remember, you have 2 wheels, and 2 calipers, so you need 2 of these. Credit goes to wartdog of dsmtuners.com for creation of the picture. The pic. is entitled "BRAKEadaptordrawing"
That crazy shape you cut (twice) is your new caliper mounting bracket. It was designed to fit between the rotor and the mounting tabs (not the outside of the tabs) and inside the tabs of the caliper.
The hardest part of this job is fabricating the brackets, so do that before you get to even removingthe old stuff.
once their made...
Remove the old rotors, calipers, and caliper mounting bracket.
Fit the hubcentric spacer ring inside the rotor (just how the stock one was installed) and install the rotor onto the hub.
Bolt the new caliper mounting bracket as previously instructed. A picture is attached, and entitled "mockup". (also accredited to wartdog) Because a picture is worth 1,000 words, and I really want to get to bed, and not type all night.
Attach the brake line to the caliper.
Attach the caliper to the mounting bracket (along with fresh brake pads).
Zip-tie the OEM brake line to the strut (doesn't quite fit in that stock bolt hole does it?)
Bleed the brakes.
Re-install the wheels.
Your Done!!!
Follow the manufactures suggested brake in time for your new brake pads and your good to go.
You will immediately notice a softer pedel feel, this is normal. Stainless steel brake lines may help somewhat.
...Enjoy